A Guide to the Guides of Israel

By HDAR YASHAR

Referred to as the Land of Milk and Honey, the Holy Land, the Promised Land, and Eretz Yisrael, Israel is the place where people come for spiritual injections, a dive into ancient history, or an archaeologically phenomenal experience. Whether you're coming to study on a one-week religious retreat or a one-year program at a yeshiva; whether you're spending a summer digging in Caesarea to earn a college credit or feeding chickens as a volunteer on a kibbutz; whether you're taking the kids to the source of their cultural and religious origins, or you're honeymooning on the shores of Eilat and windsurfing across the Red Sea–and regardless of the "situation"–Israel remains a fascinating destination, fabulously rich in culture, history, and spirit.

As described in guidebooks, Israel's attractions range from the "downright sexy, Tel Aviv [pulsing] with cutting-edge energy" to Jerusalem, the "mountainous walled city with a 5,000-year historyŠsacred to more than one-third of the world's population." Of course, we mustn't leave out Haifa, "a society unlike any other in the Middle East." If you're not the city type, try the Negev, "a region of low sandstone hills, steppes, and fertile plains furrowed with canyons and wadis." Or, head north for the Galilee, to "Israel's lushest regionŠ to enjoy the ocean of wildflowers and blossoming trees

Israel offers something for everyone. From rolling landscapes to desert dunes, and from eclectic coffee shops to archaeological treasures, you are sure to return home with memories of not just a great vacation, but an extraordinary experience.

BLUE GUIDE: ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES
By Kay Prag.
476 pages. Black Norton. $26.95.

This guidebook is an archaeologically and historically comprehensive guide for anyone with a thirst for all the ancient details of the land. Keep in mind, however, that Israel is literally packed with archaeological finds and historical artifacts both long gone and still standing. There are no summaries here. While other guides offer the more common sites for your travelling pleasure, The Blue Guide will take you to little-known sites like the Tubara (Tomb) of Baraka Khan, tell you that it was built between 1265 and 1280, tell you of its main attraction (the "early Mamluk doorway built in Romanesque style") and all the history surrounding the Khwarizmian band chief, Baraka Khan. This book functions well as a supplement to any other guide you may choose; carrying it with is like having your own personal history professor as a travel companion.

FODOR'S ISRAEL
Edited by Karen Cure, Beatrice Aranow.
464 pages. Fodor's Travel Publications. $18.

One of the best Israel guidebooks, Fodor's offers an inviting and easy-to-follow layout and contains information on everything from the cheapest hostels to the most elegant luxury resorts. This book will lead you to Israel, guide you around the country, and bring you back for more next year. Especially helpful are the "Smart Travel Tips from A to Z" in the back of the book, including everything from Children in Israel ("find out the cutoff age for children's discounts" when looking for lodging) to Etiquette & Behavior tips ("guests in Muslim households insult their hosts if they decline a drink") to Tipping ("taxi drivers do not expect tips, but a gratuity for good service is in order.")

FROMMER'S ISRAEL
By Robert Ullian.
518 pages. IDG Books Worldwide, Inc. $19.99.

Another excellent handbook, notable for its section of "The Best of's," suggested itineraries, and an A to Z shopping guide. This is the only one of the reviwed guides to mention the Bet Jimal Monastery, a stunning piece of architecture nestled atop a hill amidst the forests just west of Jerusalem (which incidentally is the view from my Beit Shemesh apartment.) Though we have lived here for more than 8 years, it took Frommer's to teach us the historical significance of this wondrous place just outside our window. Frommer's also deserves praise for its slant toward the Jewish traveler, mentioning the kashrut (Kosher certification) of various restaurants and other interesting bits of Jewish information, like which hotels offer children's activities during Passover.

LET'S GO ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES
Edited by Risha Kim Lee, Amelie Cherlin, Charlotte Houghteling.
420 pages. St. Martin's Press. $17.99.

Traveling cheap? Let's Go may be exactly what you need. Student-written and laced with irony, this book remains the star travel guide for student travelers and backpackers. Whether you're interested in museums or hiking trails, Let's Go will tell you how to get to your destination whether you're walking, taking a bus, or a cab, the attraction's hours of operation, and the entrance fee. The book is best for anyone desiring a complete yet inexpensive trip to the Holy Land; in fact, you will not find any lodgings listed other than hostels, or any restaurants that are "tourist-priced" in this guide. Plus, Let's Go gives literal step-by-step directions from site to site.

LONELY PLANET ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES
By Paul Hellander, Andrew Humphreys, Neil Tilbury.
448 pages. Lonely Planet Publications. $17.95.

Popular among student travelers and backpackers, Lonely Planet conveys colorful and sometimes bizarre opinions. For example, the author describes felafel, the ubiquitous Middle Eastern fast food, as "not particularly tasty, but covered in tehina (a thin paste made from sesame seeds) and served with an assortment of salads in a pitta bread, they are palatable." Palatable! Clearly this man has never tasted good falafel. On his next trip, he might be advised to stop at a few not-to-miss falafel joints, like Shalom Falafel on Bezalel St. just across from the Behar Institute in Jerusalem. Yet, what Lonely Planet lacks in culinary taste, it makes up for with the most comprehensive maps offered in any of the guides–maps better than some of those sold to locals at gas stations.